Where the mysterious backwaters join the open sea

Varkala view between bamboo poles

From crowded Trivandrum we headed onto quiet Varkala in the evening. The peak season hasn’t come in yet, so there was enough and more personal space to finally experience some serenity far away from mad drivers and the freaking toots and honks.

We checked into our last minute accommodation, nodded to some lizards on the room wall, dropped off our luggage and pulled out for a walk to Varkala’s nightlife to meet a not at all average couple one of my travel buddies knew. Indian origin Renold Netto and his wife from Germany run Woodstock Garden, a nice and cozy home-stay accommodation just a few minutes walk from one of Varkala’s top beaches. Renold is also a much talented abstract and landscape painter who happily walked us behind the scenes into his studio. After a rather inspiring chat with the couple we returned to the hotel to get some rest and fall fast asleep to the sounds of the waving sea.

Painting Woodstock Garden

From abstract to landscape – artworks of Renold Netto

We kicked-off next day at the astonishing beach, just down the road, enjoying the picturesque view of coconut trees and the strong waves of the sparkling water with some fishermen in the background packing up after their early hours out in the open sea.

Silent Varkala beach

Varkala fishermen

Out of peak season time – Varkala beach

Lunchtime fun-time we picked a Tibetan restaurant standing on a steady rock high above the water. The delightful meal at Little Tibet, the surrounding nature and the cooling sea breeze just put us instantly in a different mindset. Varkala by the way is an excellent place to relax and heal with Ayurveda therefore many hotels and lodges offer some of the ancient massage treatments and packages. Worth to try!

Little Tibet restaurant in VarkalaGourmet hunters’ paradise – Little Tibet Restaurant in Varkala

The afternoon and a short drive out of town brought something unexpectedly unique in. Taking a turn off the main road, a bumpy unpaved path led us to an enigmatic spot where the constantly waving sea joins the calm and mysterious backwaters only to be divided by a narrow ness. Such an extraordinary view, you don’t come across with every day. We sat down at the beach to look at the sun speedily going down playing incredible colors on sky to sea to land. The entire stay, crowned by this fascinating experience definitely put Varkala on the out-of-peak-season must see list within wonder-filled Kerala.

Kappil beach sunsetWhere two different waters connect – Kappil Beach

Kerala off the beaten track:

11 thoughts on “Where the mysterious backwaters join the open sea

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    • It is a very great place and depends on the season what you get. The best is to visit pre-season time so the weather is nice but the place is still not overcrowded. There are a lot of home stays available where you would be able to make friends with the locals so they can give you first hand information on places and activities around Varkala. Let me know if you visit once, probably I can give you some tips 😉


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